The age-old idea that you can shrink your pores—using anything from a splash of ice-cold water to an egg-white mask—is a fantastic one. Sadly, it’s also a fantasy: “Pore size is genetically determined,” says Debra Jaliman, a dermatologist in New York City, and you can’t make pores physically smaller. So to a certain extent, you have to accept what you were given. But there are things you can do to minimize the appearance of your pores.
Pores: A Primer
Those tiny dots you see on the surface of your skin are actually the openings of hair follicles. Each one contains a sebaceous gland, which produces your skin’s oils. (Pores are more noticeable on parts of the face, like the forehead and the nose, where the sebaceous glands are bigger.) The size of your pores depends primarily on your genes. Typically, says Jaliman, fair-skinned people have pores on the small side; those with olive or darker skin have larger pores. Your skin type, too, can play a role. Naturally dry skin tends to appear poreless, while oily skin often has more-visible pores.
Several other factors can affect pore size. Dead skin cells and trapped sebum—which, put together, form a pimple—can stretch out pores. UV rays weaken the collagen that supports pores and keeps them tight, so they can also make pores look bigger. Similarly, the collagen loss that comes naturally with aging can increase the appearance of pore size. And picking at or squeezing a pimple can cause trauma to the skin, which may permanently widen the pore.
Easy Pore-Minimizing Strategies
The key to making pores appear smaller is to keep them clear. During the day, stick with noncomedogenic moisturizers and makeup; avoid products that contain heavy ingredients, like petrolatum and mineral oil, both of which may irritate pores and make them look bigger. Always wash your face with a gentle cleanser before bed to prevent the day’s dirt and makeup from clogging pores, says Heidi Waldorf, a dermatologist in New York City. (For product suggestions, see below.) Cleanse before and after working out, since sweat can carry cosmetics and debris to pore openings, where they’ll settle in and stretch the skin. When you cleanse, consider doing it with a power brush, such as the Clarisonic MIA Skin Cleansing System ($99, sephora.com). The company’s research shows that its system is more than twice as effective as using your hands to wash your skin.
Exfoliating is also crucial, since it removes pore-enlarging dead cells from the skin’s surface, says Jaliman. Exfoliate daily if your skin is hardy and doesn’t get red, one to three times a week if your skin is sensitive. Choose an over-the-counter gel, mask, or lotion that contains a proven sloughing ingredient, such as alpha hydroxy acids, retinol, or fruit enzymes. If in addition to having large pores, you tend to break out, choose a lotion with salicylic acid instead, says Patricia Farris, a dermatologist in Metairie, Louisiana…
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